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* The eiswein listed was never
served.
MOSEL 1986
Reviewed by ANDRE BEAUMONT
I was in the Mosel in 1987 and so sampled quite a bit of 1986 in one of the right places, including by attending the rather splendid tasting below.
I do not have any tasting notes for more than one reason, one of which was the tasting was held in near darkness.
The analogue world is passing and soon will be gone. When is the last time you used a telephone box? About a decade ago is the answer most frequently heard and some of the telephone numbers were short enough for people to be paid telephone number salaries.
Well, this tasting was held in what felt like the pre-analogue age. Held in a cellar under the Schartzhofberg there was no telephone and never had been.
There was meant to be a solitary incandescent light bulb but it had expired in the damp environment near a gentle drip and so the tasting was held by the light of a single candle and none the worse for for that. But that is why I remember vividly the description how eiswein was made from grapes gathered at 3am on New Year's Day from the top of the mountain in one of the best vineyards in the world and why I never grumble if a producer known to sometimes produce eiswein cannot find a bottle for the tasting*!
