A global archive of independent reviews of everything happening from the beginning of the millennium

For publication dates click here

Read our Copyright Notice click here



Exquisite balance on all parts of the tongue, around the mouth and on the palate.

Initial well-balanced, aromatic, slightly farmyard nose. Gentle, insistent alcohol on the nose but legs in glass not pronounced. Hint of farmyard recedes as the wine takes air.

Well-mellowed colour. Beginning to turn brown but no more at the edges than in the body of the wine.

Length is subtle and not insistent and infiltrates all parts of the respiratory system. Almost seems to reach higher than other wines into the brain! Serious length - lasts well past the hour if no other wine or food taken onto the palate thereafter.

No pronounced fruits on the nose - it is a relief to have a wine so well-balanced that it does not have to be imperfectly described in terms of something else.

Margaux 1953 is open but has all the appearance at present of being able to age for ever. With age it will change in character, be smoother but not necessarily open more. If it opens in some aspects it may close in others but it will continue to improve.

A certain austerity, which is found in Margaux, is there. The lasting impression is one of subtle, exquisite length and balance.